White Ash (Fraxinus americana)

White Ash (Fraxinus americana)

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Common Name(s): White Ash, American White Ash

Scientific Name: Fraxinus americana

Distribution: Eastern North America

Tree Size: 65-100 ft (20-30 m) tall, 2-5 ft (.6-1.5 m) trunk diameter

Average Dried Weight: 42 lbs/ft3 (675 kg/m3)

Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .55, .67

Janka Hardness: 1,320 lbf (5,870 N)

Modulus of Rupture: 15,000 lbf/in2 (103.5 MPa)

Elastic Modulus: 1,740,000 lbf/in2 (12.00 GPa)

Crushing Strength: 7,410 lbf/in2 (51.1 MPa)

Shrinkage: Radial: 4.9%, Tangential: 7.8%, Volumetric: 13.3%, T/R Ratio: 1.6

Color/Appearance: The heartwood is a light to medium brown color. Sapwood can be very wide, and tends to be a beige or light brown; not always clearly or sharply demarcated from heartwood.

Grain/Texture: Has a medium to coarse texture similar to oak. The grain is almost always straight and regular, though sometimes moderately curly or figured boards can be found.

Endgrain: Ring-porous; large earlywood pores 2-4 rows wide, small latewood pores solitary and radial multiples; tyloses common; parenchyma banded (marginal), paratracheal parenchyma around latewood pores vasicentric, winged and confluent; narrow rays, spacing normal.

Rot Resistance: Heartwood is rated as perishable, or only slightly durable in regard to decay. Ash is also not resistant to insect attack.

Workability: Produces good results with hand or machine tools. Responds well to steam bending. Glues, stains, and finishes well.

Odor: Can have a distinct, moderately unpleasant smell when being worked.

Allergies/Toxicity: Ash in the Fraxinus genus has been reported to cause skin irritation, and a decrease in lung function. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.

Pricing/Availability: Ash is among the least expensive utility hardwoods available domestically; it should compare similarly to oak in terms of price.

Sustainability: This wood species is not listed in the CITES Appendices, but is on the IUCN Red List. It is listed as critically endangered due to a projected population reduction of over 80% in the next three generations, caused by effects of introduced taxa. (See notes on the emerald ash borer in the comments section below.)

Common Uses: Flooring, millwork, boxes/crates, baseball bats, and other turned objects such as tool handles.

Comments: The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis), believed to have been inadvertently introduced from Asia sometime in the 1990s, was first detected in Michigan in 2002. Lacking natural predators, uncontrolled populations of this invasive species spread very rapidly throughout North America, devastating local populations of ash trees. The beetles’ larvae bore into a tree and feed on the inner bark, eventually killing the entire tree. The insects are responsible for the deaths of hundreds of millions of ash trees across the United States and Canada. Green Ash and Black Ash trees are preferentially attacked by the insects, followed by White Ash and Blue Ash.

White Ash has excellent shock resistance, and along with hickory (Carya spp.), it is one of the most commonly used hardwoods for tool handles in North America—particularly in shovels and hammers where toughness and impact resistance is important.

When stained, ash can look very similar to oak (Quercus spp.), although oaks have much wider rays, which are visible on all wood surfaces—even on flatsawn surfaces, where they appear as short, thin brown lines between the growth rings. Ashes lack these conspicuous rays.

Related Species:

Related Articles:


White Ash (sanded)

White Ash (sanded)

White Ash (sealed)

White Ash (sealed)

White Ash (endgrain)

White Ash (endgrain)

White Ash (endgrain 10x)

White Ash (endgrain 10x)

White Ash (20" x 6.4")

White Ash (20″ x 6.4″)



  1. jeff Smith January 5, 2019 at 8:16 pm - Reply

    14″ x 8″ snare drum I made from ash.

  2. ExRxIT January 2, 2019 at 1:58 am - Reply

    This is a white ash guitar I built from a board someone gave me. Most ash is rather plain, but it sometimes has wonderful figure. The guitar is a prototype for two that I am building for my brothers out of more expensive woods. The top is Sitka spruce. It is light as a feather and sounds fantastic, and I’m a little afraid that my brothers’ bubinga and Tasmanian blackwood guitars won’t sound as good.

    • jeff Smith January 5, 2019 at 8:13 pm - Reply

      Incredible work! and what a beautiful piece of wood. I bet it sounds great.

  3. Sheldon July 1, 2018 at 2:36 pm - Reply

    Hi There, I have cladded the exterior of a house with this timber, treated it with a lime wash, however it is rotting and bowing, would you recommend this timber for exterior cladding and what would you seal it with.

    • Sue November 8, 2018 at 12:40 pm - Reply

      Next time look into ThermoWood Ash manufactured by Scottywood in Canada

  4. dana ward April 23, 2018 at 3:22 am - Reply

    hi is this a hardwood

  5. Laurence Cousins March 15, 2018 at 6:40 pm - Reply

    I am thinking of having an African bass drum known as a doudoumba made of white ash.

  6. Chris Ballard January 12, 2014 at 6:51 am - Reply

    I am restoring an old fiberglass fishing rod that is estimated at about 40-50 yrs old give or take 10 years.. Was this a common hardwood used in fishing rod handles? It looks very similar.

  7. Dan Goodwin October 2, 2013 at 8:34 pm - Reply

    I restored a 1941 Packard Woody and we had to use bleach to get the oil and dirt out of the wood. It was white ash and for a finish we used automotive urethane. We applied 3 coats then wet sanded, applied 3 more coats wet sanded again and then applied 3 finish coats. After finishing you will want to seal between the panels and the frame.

  8. matt August 26, 2013 at 11:58 am - Reply

    i am restoring 1949 chrysler town&country convertible,it has white ash on it.I sanded down old varnish, then i have been applying acid. I cant seem to get the grain bleached,the grain seems to either have dirt or old varnish imbedded. Do I keep applying the oxalic acid ? After I get All the wood bleached uniformly,I would like to use a red oak stain to bring out the grain color. Do I need to use a grain filler before or after staining ? Final finish I will be using a marine spar varnish I would appreciate your input on restoreing the wood, sandpaper,stains,varnish,etc. Thanks,Matt

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