Wood and Moisture

by Eric Meier

Perhaps the most important aspect of woodworking deals with the relationship between wood and moisture. A fundamental fact is that wood is hygroscopic. This means that wood, almost like a sponge, will gain or lose moisture from the air based upon the conditions of the surrounding environment.

But not only does wood gain or lose moisture, but it will also expand or contract according to the magnitude of such changes; and it is this swelling and shrinking in finished wood products—often referred to as the wood’s movement in service—that is responsible for so much mischief and so many malfunctions in woodworking.

When a tree is first felled, it is considered to be in the green state, and contains a very large amount of moisture. This moisture exists in two different forms: as free water that is contained as liquid in the pores or vessels of the wood itself, and as bound water that is trapped within the cell walls.

Once a fresh log or piece of lumber is cut and exposed to the air, it will immediately begin losing free water. At this point, the wood does not contract or otherwise change in dimension since the fibers are still completely saturated with bound water. It is only once all the free water has been lost that the wood will reach what is called the fiber saturation point, or simply FSP.

Below the FSP, the wood will then begin to lose moisture in the form of bound water, and an accompanying reduction in the wood’s volume will occur. At this point, the wood is no longer considered to be in the green state, but is now in a state of drying.

Just how much bound moisture is lost during the drying phase will ultimately depend upon the temperature and relative humidity (RH) of the surrounding air. At 100%?rh, no bound water will be lost. At 0% RH, all the bound water in the wood will be lost, a condition known as ovendry—so-called because a kiln or oven is typically required to completely drive out all moisture.

The amount of water in a given piece of wood is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the water as compared to its ovendry weight. Some species of trees, when they are initially felled, may contain more water by weight than actual wood fiber, resulting in a moisture content (MC) over 100%.

Moisture Content % = (weight of water / ovendry weight of wood) x 100

For instance, suppose that a freshly sawn piece of Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides) weighed 50 lbs. in its initial green state, and ended up weighing only 20 lbs. when fully dried in an oven—this means that a total of 30 lbs. of water was lost in the drying process. So using the equation above: 30 lbs. (weight of water), divided by 20 lbs. (ovendry weight of wood), and multiplied by 100 to get the percentage, we arrive at 150% MC for a green section of Cottonwood.

Of course, the preceding moisture equation—though entirely factual—is mainly for illustrative purposes. In most practical circumstances, the easiest way to check the moisture content of a piece of wood is to simply use a moisture meter. But it’s a good practice to understand what the moisture meter reading actually represents, and to recognize that readings above 100% MC are possible, (and in the case of many lightweight species in their green condition, are quite common).

As a piece of wood dries, it first loses its free water and dips below the FSP (fiber saturation point). This FSP corresponds to roughly 30% MC in most wood species. (The FSP may be roughly ±3% MC depending on the wood species, but 30% MC is the commonly-accepted average.)

That is to say, regardless of whatever MC the wood begins at when green, (anywhere from 35% MC to over 200% MC depending on the species), it begins to lose bound water (and dimensionally shrink) when the weight of the remaining water is at a ratio of approximately 30% to the theoretical weight of the ovendry wood.

It should be noted that in real-world situations, the FSP is never uniformly reached throughout the thickness of a piece of lumber. A moisture gradient develops where the outside (shell) is drier, with the interior (core) still wet and playing catch-up.

As the MC of wood drops below the FSP, it will continue to lose moisture until it eventually stabilizes at a value that is commensurate with the surrounding moisture in the air. This is known as the point of equilibrium moisture content, or simply EMC. The EMC will change based upon the fluctuating temperature and relative humidity of the surrounding air.

In addition to the fundamental fact that wood is hygroscopic, perhaps the most crucial concept to understand regarding wood and moisture is the link between relative humidity and equilibrium moisture content.

Relative Humidity Chart

From studying the included chart, several important points pertaining to the relationship between relative humidity (RH) and equilibrium moisture content (EMC) emerge.

  • The chart tops out at 30% EMC, which is equivalent to the FSP. Short of physically submerging a piece of wood underwater, it’s not possible to go back and exceed the FSP once all the free water has been lost.
  • The plotted line is not flat (linear), and 50% RH is not comparable to the midpoint value of 15% EMC. (50% RH actually equates to just over 9% EMC.)
  • There is a noticeable increase in the slope of the line, especially in the 85% to 100%?rh range. This means that wood will swell to a significantly greater extent if it is exposed to prolonged humidity in excess of 85% RH.
  • Conversely, the line is somewhat flatter in the range of 20% to 55% RH. Humidity changes that happen in this window have a slightly gentler effect on EMC, and hence results in smaller amounts of shrinking and swelling.

Although the values given in the preceding chart are for rh at 70° F, changes in temperature—assuming the same humidity level—only have a moderate effect on EMC, typically amounting to ±1% MC within a normal climatic range of 30° F to 110° F.

Most interior buildings are kept between 30 to 60% RH, corresponding to 6 to 11% EMC. Exterior values can be much more variable depending on locale and season, but averages typically range from 30% to 80% RH, corresponding to 6 to 16% EMC.

It can be very useful to make mental notes of common humidity levels and their corresponding EMC. For instance, furniture and other interior woodwork should usually be constructed with an intermediate target of 8% EMC, which is achieved by storing lumber at approximately 40 to 45% RH. For exterior projects, a target of about 12% EMC is a good compromise, which equates to lumber stored at 65% RH.

Using lumber that is within the median EMC range for a given locale prevents the Goldilocks syndrome: the wood is not too dry, (which might lead to subsequent swelling in the humid summer), and not too wet, (which might lead to checking and splitting in the dry winter). In this way, the wood is most likely to remain as close as possible to its intended size and shape.

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Wyatt Schmidt

Does 12 percent moisture content mean that it’s 12 percent the weight of the wood are 12 percent the mass of the wood? Also one more question how much weight would white oak lose if it was at 12% moisture content and then went to 0% moisture content would it be 12 percent of its weight lost?

Robin

Hey there together,

I newly have made an own fireplace at home and want to collect wood for that. But sometimes the wood produces a lot of smoke, so I think, it’s to wet.

I have just found a page where are a lot of Moisture meters: https://www.pce-instruments.com/english/measuring-instruments/test-meters/moisture-meter-kat_41793.htm

There is a Wood Moisture meter. Do you think, this would be the best for my purpose?

David

Collect your wood and stack it loosely. Cover it or stack under a shed where the air can circulate over and around it. Green wood, wood cut this year from live trees with leaves on them should dry for at least several months in the stacks. A year or more would be better. Moisture is not the problem. The sap in the tree creates creosote when it burns. Creosote is your danger. It will build up in your chimney and catch fire and burn your house down if you don’t take precautions.

Enrique

Is there any conversion or any way to convert BDU (bone dry unit to 3/8″) or viceversa?

Matt

I am a wood moisture idiot – trying to learn and understand. I am located in Utah – so dry air.

I made a pine decorative breadboard a couple months ago and it is warping (edges of the board turning up). I treated that one just with some vegetable oil.

I just barely made a new one – this time I put 2 layers of beeswax on it. I just bought a moisture sensor – seems really dry?? What should I expect this board to do? Any way to fix/address now?

Arthur House

Very informative article. I am about to embark on heating wood chips in a Phytosanitation process. We will be using White (Paper) Birch wood chips (100% debarked) – assuming 1 cf = about 50 lbs – and we expect the put the chip in at 45% MC and want to lose 5% MC (to 40% MC) – can you help me with figuring out how many lbs of water weight we will use in the loss of 5% MC? The end purpose is to understand that of it takes about 1550 BTU of energy to remove 1 lb of water… Read more »

Gary Davis

Can Lumber reach its EM
C in log form?

HARSHAD RAVESHIA

Excellent explanation of Wood Drying Process…

As a Wood Technologist, I was always wondering how to explain this to my follower…

Now I can explain…

Ratul

I have a damp room,so i planned I will decorate it with pain wood to get rid of with it…is it a wise plan Sir? can you suggest

Julia Xia

New technology drying wood,SAGA dryer applies high frequency dielectric heating method under vacuum condition,fast and uniform.It is suitable for all kinds of wood,from soft wood to hardwood,from veneer to thick big plank.All the drying result is perfect without bending,cracking and color changing.Welcome inquiry to sagahf2@163.com

HARSHAD RAVESHIA

Hi Julia,
We manufacture Wooden Pencils and we need to DRY 2 Million Pieces of Pencil wood having 75 MM (Width) X 5.25 MM (Thickness) X 185 MM Length) every day.
Do you have any Quick solution for this without Cracking and Warping?
Harshad Raveshia
raveshias@gmail.com

Jimmy

Thermal modification

Julia Xia

a new way to dry wood called high frequency vacuum wood dryer,more fast and uniform,drying wood from inside to outside.

Ahsanul Islam Sagor

how this method is used ???

Julia Xia

High frequency only acts on the water of wood,combined with vacuum,the water will be sucked out fast.May I have your email address?I can send you more details.Or you can leave me an message sagahf2@163.com

Julia Xia

may I have your email address?

sylvaticus

Thank you.. very clear post.. Where could I find moisture content of live trees?

suegatmarois

I am going to make birch cabinet doors from the trees felled by the wind this summer.
I am storing the wood til next year and will be checking the EMC. Thanks for all the info.