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	<title>Comments on: Aromatic Red Cedar</title>
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		<title>By: Eric</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/comment-page-1/#comment-795</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2011 16:07:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Kyle, I&#039;ve had the very same experiences with oily tropical woods too. I have a feeling that the oils in the wood somehow change the chemistry of the finish, so that polyurethane and other reactive finishes simply will not cure... ever. They just stay gummy. Again, sealing with several coats of shellac seemed to remedy this, and allowed me to then use polyurethane as a more durable topcoat. (I really should write an article about all of this.)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kyle, I&#8217;ve had the very same experiences with oily tropical woods too. I have a feeling that the oils in the wood somehow change the chemistry of the finish, so that polyurethane and other reactive finishes simply will not cure&#8230; ever. They just stay gummy. Again, sealing with several coats of shellac seemed to remedy this, and allowed me to then use polyurethane as a more durable topcoat. (I really should write an article about all of this.)</p>
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		<title>By: Kyle Dickson</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/comment-page-1/#comment-794</link>
		<dc:creator>Kyle Dickson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2011 22:41:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-database.com/?p=1973#comment-794</guid>
		<description>In my experience red cedar likes evaporative finishes like shellac or lacquer much more that curative finishes like any sort of oil based product.  Linseed oil, polyurethane, spar varnish and such can remain tacky for a long time or adhear poorly due to red cedar&#039;s high resin content.  That&#039;s why it has a strong smell.  Same goes for &quot;heart pine&quot; as far as finishes, especially if the wood has streaks of &quot;fat lighter&quot; in it.  If a wood has a strong &quot;resiny&quot; smell use shellac or lacquer.  You can also seal the wood with a dewaxed shellac and then pile on an oil finish.  Most any finish will stick to dewaxed shellac.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In my experience red cedar likes evaporative finishes like shellac or lacquer much more that curative finishes like any sort of oil based product.  Linseed oil, polyurethane, spar varnish and such can remain tacky for a long time or adhear poorly due to red cedar&#8217;s high resin content.  That&#8217;s why it has a strong smell.  Same goes for &#8220;heart pine&#8221; as far as finishes, especially if the wood has streaks of &#8220;fat lighter&#8221; in it.  If a wood has a strong &#8220;resiny&#8221; smell use shellac or lacquer.  You can also seal the wood with a dewaxed shellac and then pile on an oil finish.  Most any finish will stick to dewaxed shellac.</p>
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		<title>By: Eric</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/comment-page-1/#comment-94</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Oct 2010 18:36:40 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Bill, a lot will depend on how much durability you&#039;re after, and what type of look that you want. You could use Polyurethane for better protection, and if you only use a few coats of satin it could still look natural. Otherwise pile on some glossy coats for maximum protection. 

For the most minimal finish, you could just seal it with shellac. I prefer to mix my own, but I know Zinsser SealCoat is a good product; just make sure the date on the bottom of the can is less than a year old.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bill, a lot will depend on how much durability you&#8217;re after, and what type of look that you want. You could use Polyurethane for better protection, and if you only use a few coats of satin it could still look natural. Otherwise pile on some glossy coats for maximum protection. </p>
<p>For the most minimal finish, you could just seal it with shellac. I prefer to mix my own, but I know Zinsser SealCoat is a good product; just make sure the date on the bottom of the can is less than a year old.</p>
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		<title>By: bill</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/comment-page-1/#comment-92</link>
		<dc:creator>bill</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Oct 2010 09:29:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-database.com/?p=1973#comment-92</guid>
		<description>I made a custom floor in my 49 chevy pickup of 3/8 aromatic cedar t&amp;g and sealed it with linseed oil. The oil picks up dirt and I just finished sanding it back to natural. What can I use to seal this wood? Bill</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I made a custom floor in my 49 chevy pickup of 3/8 aromatic cedar t&amp;g and sealed it with linseed oil. The oil picks up dirt and I just finished sanding it back to natural. What can I use to seal this wood? Bill</p>
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