 Leadwood (Combretum imberbe)
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Common Name(s): Leadwood Scientific Name: Combretum imberbe Distribution: From South Africa north to Tanzania Tree Size: 32-64 ft (10-20 m) tall, 1-2ft (.3-.6 m) trunk diameter Average Dried Weight: 77 lbs/ft3 (1235 kg/m3) Hardness: 3,790 lbf (16,880 N)* *Estimated hardness based upon specific gravity. Rupture Strength: No data available Elastic Strength: No data available Crushing Strength: – lbf/in2 (- MPa) Shrinkage: No data available |
Color/Appearance: No data available.
Grain/Pore: No data available.
Endgrain: No data available.
Durability: No data available.
Workability: No data available.
Scent: There is no characteristic odor associated with this wood species.
Safety: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, wood in the Combretum genus has been reported to cause skin irritation. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.
Price/Availability: No data available.
Comments: Leadwood is used for carving and furniture within its natural range. Smaller trees are also used as fuelwood, as the wood burns slowly at high temperatures. The wood is also used for turned objects and other small specialty items.
None available.
Scans/Pictures: A special thanks to Steve Earis for providing the wood sample and turned photo of this wood species.
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Leadwood (sanded) |
 Leadwood (sealed) |
 Leadwood (endgrain) |
 Leadwood (endgrain 10x) |
March 26th, 2012 at 7:37 am
To whom it may concern.
We are based in Mozambique and are busy making all the windows, doors an furniture out of Leadwood, or as we know it Monzo.
Would you be interested in some info that is missing from your site?
Regards,
Derrick.
April 5th, 2012 at 7:02 pm
Here’s some of Derrick’s comments about the wood via email. I’ll try to sort this out an incorporate this info in the spots above as I get time, for now it’s just one big comment at the bottom of the page:
“The timber is very strong but brittle, rigid in short lengths but not so rigid when long.
“When grading the mill must understand the way the tree grows.
The nature of the tree is very erratic and the branches break off easily. Unfortunately the tree grows around the knot and often leaves cavities which are often concealed. It also suffers from shake, mostly at the base of the tree near the center. Once again dependent on the mill and their ability to understand where to look for faults.
“When machining you get a combination of fine powder-like dust and normal shavings. BE SURE TO USE A RESPERATOR. Dust masks are ineffective.
“On occasion the timber may appear to be a mustard yellow on the inside of the stock but will revert to the dark brown almost black color with age.
“As far as making furniture, it is hugely rewarding.
“Keep the weight in mind when designing, specially chairs, the weight will surprise an ill prepared gentleman hoping to briskly pull out a chair for his lady(he’ll end up at the cyro-practor).
“It is very unkind to dull cutters and an un-trained hand. When your tool technique is not up to scratch you will end up with chipped edges and break-out. When making joints and shaping by hand smaller actions deliver the best results. Reading the direction of the grain can be misleading. Work in a well-lit area of the shop.
“If your joints are super tight the timber is likely to crack, it is super-dense. When you dry fit your joints, be sure not to use too much force, rather shave material off and re-try. The timber has a tendency to hold fast if the joint has zero tolerance. If it does hold fast use very small movements to pry the joint apart. Always keep in mind that the timber is brittle but strong.
“Then we get to glue. In Africa we are not as fortunate as the developed world to have the range of choice like in Europe and the United-States. Cold glue as we know it is ineffective and releases at the slightest stress. Our Alcolin Ultra wood glue works well, but interior only. We use Balkotan mostly, very messy glue but effective. The equivalent would be something like ‘Gorilla’.
“Papering/sanding is time consuming. Best is to use a silicone based paper that deters build-up. If using a belt sander, be sure that the foot plate/pad is good and free of high spots. This timber is highly unforgiving and will highlight incorrect workmanship. It is just as highly rewarding when it is good.
“Finishing must be tested with the products that are available. Polywax products give good results, but if you are looking at varnishes know that some do not adhere in the long term. The varnish film separates when bumped or scratched due to the poor absorption of any liquid(solvent). Oiling could work, but that depends on the function of the piece.”